Sure, we could (and do) talk endlessly about the clothes we love, but for our column Line Item, we ask some of our favorite designers to tell us what they think about the best pieces from their newest collections. Today, Dave 1 of Chromeo tells us about the Invisible Stitch White Shirt he made as part of a collection he designed for inexpensive Montreal-based online retailer Frank & Oak:
I had never heard of the company when they approached me, but I liked the fact that they’re from my hometown and have a background in traditional men’s tailoring. My only requirement was: can the jeans be super tight? They obliged and we designed the whole wardrobe in three months. I think it’s a good idea because there is such a shortage of perfectly cut men’s basics. Now, when some kid hits me up on Instagram asking me where I got my suit, I can point him towards an outfit that costs 200 bucks instead of name dropping some designer stuff, which is horribly boorish in my opinion. So if a 21 year-old from, say, San Diego can walk around in my F&O tux and get asked “What’s that jacket? Margiela?” I’ve accomplished what I set out to do.
For the F&O button down we did, the body had to fit really snug, but you should always be able to button it all the way to the top. The sleeves on a shirt should be really skinny, otherwise they’ll bunch up when you wear a blazer. Arm holes need to be high. The length of the shirt is always an issue, too: if it’s too long, you can’t casually wear it untucked over jeans; if it’s too short, you can’t tuck it in a suit because it’ll bunch up over the belt. Obviously there are many schools of thought regarding the collar size. My rule is: the collar should be as slim as possible, only thick enough to accommodate the skinniest of black ties. Otherwise you look like you work in finance. Fabric has to be 100% cotton obviously. Not too thin, nobody wants to see your nipples (undershirts are for peasants). So what if it’s going to wrinkle easily? You should own a steamer.
Our F&O button down has all of the above and—hate to sound like a salesman—costs a fraction of all the other Dior ones in my closet.