Style TV: Patrik Ervell F/W ‘09

Even if menswear designer Patrik Ervell wasn’t being featured in F60 (which he is) and even if he weren’t an old friend of mine (which he is), I’d still be excited to attend his runway show every season. He makes impeccable, forward-thinking menswear and his shows are always a beautifully-staged affair. This season he upped his game with finely-tailored suits and jackets partnered with nearly-transparent hoodies, space-age fake fur derived from real fur (we still haven’t figured out how that works, but it doesn’t hurt or bum out the animals, apparently), and — surprise! — a woman walking the runway. The luminous show was almost inspiring enough to make me forget that I was single on Valentines day. Almost.
-T Cole Rachel

Style: And on the Seventh Day There Was Flannel

For Fall/Winter 09 New York fashion week, FADER style assistant Erin Hansen will chronicle everything in a uniform of flannel. Will anyone really give a damn if she wears flannel for a week straight? Who knows? Stay tuned for the fascinating fashionista reactions.

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FADER TV: Fashion Week Behind the Scenes with Loden Dager

Loden Dager, the fashion design collective, showed their Spring ’09 collection at Bungalow 8, the no-cameras-allowed cabana style haven for celebrities and potential celebrities during Fashion Week. Against large wallpapered murals of beaches umbrellas and open skies, they marched out their mens- (and now some womens) wear inspired by the injection of color into early Hollywood films. A crisp pallet and clear lines kept the collection classy. We spoke with them amidst a fancy impromptu afterparty—Courtney Cox was ten feet below us.

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FADER TV: Fashion Week Behind the Scenes Wood Wood

Danish label Wood Wood have always impressed us with their ability to straddle that line between the lofty planes of high-end fashion and that other sartorial realm called the streets. So it’s kind of fitting that for their first show in New York the duo chose a 20-story building on the city’s west-side to host the proceedings, in full view of all the fashion week madness but not too far uptown to scare away any of the downtownites. Erin Hansen, our style assistant, makes her FADER TV debut talking to Karl Oskar, one half of Wood Wood, about their latest collection and what it feels like to show at NYFW for the very first time. Look out for the hats—our favorites were stuck in customs—alas! But the new brimless, North African hat is most definitely a Wood Wood look we consign for Spring ‘09.

Stylee Fridays: It’s a Wrap (The Monday Edition)

Fashion week is over. And to be perfectly honest we’re pooped! But seriously it has been tons of fun—talking color and friendship bracelets backstage with Victor Glemaud, sizing up film props with Mr & Mrs Pleet, and listening to drummers on the roof with Wood Wood (more about their show later). There were even some off-duty tear jerking moments to be had this week, like spotting Kanye skipping down the streets of SoHo after the Prada party, reunited with his ex-lady Alexis and—we sincerely hope—in love and back to his old self again.

Our behind-the-scenes video coverage this week gave us a little taste of the lights-camera-action that it takes to put on a show, so we thought we’d wrap up the week with a backstage view of a different kind. We met Japanese photographer Tekay at Jamaican fashion week, and she helped us showcase the event from all angles, scurrying backstage to snap photos of the models before rushing to catch them strike a pose on the runway. Shooting during New York fashion week however, is about as hectic as fashion event coverage gets. As Tekay tells it, there is a serious pecking order in the pit—and apparently one grand-dude supreme who’s been shooting for years and generally dishes out initiation rights as well as keeping the peace when the hot heads in the pack start clashing lenses. Tekay attended about a dozen shows including Y-3, Lacoste, Custo Barcelona (her favorite) and Blond, and is just about as exhausted as we are. Here and after the jump are a few of her favorite moments from the week, from backstage and the pit.

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FADER TV: Fashion Week Behind-the-Scenes with United Bamboo

The clothes and colors at the United Bamboo show this week left us feeling all cotton candy light and sunny day breezy. So we weren’t too surprised when after wandering back stage to talk to Thuy Pham, one-half of the UB duo, the designer cited optimism as the key note for Spring ‘09. The label celebrates it’s 10th anniversary this year, and has been consistently making beautiful pieces with an elegant and architectural twist on a downtown-NYC-meets-downtown-Tokyo aesthetic. Other reasons to be cheerful: all the jewelry in the show was equally stunning, and created by our friend Eugenie of Deka Ray.

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Fashion Week Forecast #2: Variations of Military

This week during the Patrik Ervell show, we noticed a certain military temperament, with pieces that evoked an army aesthetic for the everyday man. The show opened with infantry-style drums and a stream of marching models donning blue WWII-era flight jackets, lightly striped fencing pants and hooded ponchos in beige. We couldn’t help but think, as we sat in the stark white studio, that the simple silhouettes parading before us were arguing for some deeper theory about the simple man. Maybe Mr. Ervell was showcasing a collection for the man with meaning in his step?

Now that fashion week is coming to a close, it’s not surprising to us that many of our favorite designers—Karen Walker, Trovata—opted for a finely tailored, uncomplicated look for spring as well. Maybe because we’re all thinking about change so much, we’re flocking back to a simplified aesthetic. Designers using nautical themes and a variation of blues for their runway looks inspired us to trend spot some of our own everyday fashionables meandering around the tents in stripes, suspenders and baby blues, a few of which you can see after the jump.

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FADER TV: Behind the Scenes of Samantha Pleet Spring 09

Samantha and Patrick Pleet have something of a penchant for cinema, so this season they left all runways to the wayside and made a short film for their Spring ‘09 collection. The couple gave us a wee peek behind the scenes of their fashion movie in Brooklyn a couple of weeks ago, and we even spotted Chris Bear of Grizzly Bear on set, playing model and looking casually spiffy in next season Patrick Pleet outfits. The awesome all-white set was designed by Patrick himself and actually reminded us a little of cult ’60s French movie L’année dernière à Marienbad. We caught up with Mr and Mrs Pleet at their swanky new loft in Greenpoint to get the scoop on the new collection and the video they created with director Tom Hines (smashing bowls in suits, puppeteering in geometric rompers, etc) which premieres on Youtube today, and Pleet Street Journal later this month.

Fashion Week Forecast Part I: Duffle Bag Boys

Through the torrential downpours and gusting winds of Hurricane Hannah, we braved the first part of Fashion Week with our sloshing boots and a sturdy umbrella. As we anticipated, we found quite a few forecasters to set us on a straight path to fashionable goodness, and one particular accessory kept popping up amongst cosmopolitan men.There’s actually no real way to water these words down: Men are carrying handbags. Ever since the Seinfeld “murse” episode, gentlemen have been berated for accessorizing with bags that are more or less purses. But the aesthetic is evolving—the bags are duffel like and weathered with age and sometimes take the shape of medicine bags and briefcases, all stylistically masculine shapes. However, now that terms like “metrosexual” and “banjee” have arrived in the general vocabulary, it makes us wonder if a “masculine” bag even matters. It’s totally possible that we have arrived at an age where men aren’t worrying about their “murses” and are instead turning toward fashionable functionality.

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