Chief Black Hawk and Son, John Wesley Jarvis, 1833
Our Style Editor Chioma Nnadi this week takes a look back at the recent Fall showings for Denmark-via-London designer
Henrik Vibskov and sports-enthused satirist Chris Isenberg bka No Mas who explains why we've got a painting of Chief Black Hawk up above.
Even by New York walking standards, the schedule of fashion tradeshows a couple weeks ago was a bit of a bunion-cruncher. A few moments of stylish clarity though—like the Capsule Show downtown at the Angel Orsensanz—made packing the orthopaedics a little more worthwhile. It’s the first time designer
has gone on show here on US turf, so the booth overflowing with HV Spring 08 goodies (including a computer-game print laptop I’ve been fiending for the past few seasons) and style-deprived buyers felt like feeding time at the fashion zoo. It’s funny though, looking over the 13-odd seasons that Vibskov has been designing menswear—all those madcap cuts and hyper-colored prints (check for the Aladdin pants and elephant funny faces he has coming up for
Fall 07)—it’s easy to see how designers like Carrie Munden of Cassette Playa have been connecting the Nu Wave dots.
Upstairs by the stain-glass windows I found FADER homie Chris Isenberg and his line No Mas. When it comes to sporting allegiances, I honestly can’t sort my bears from my bulls, but I am quietly obsessed with the newer additions to his collection of customized Starter jackets, especially the Chi-town Blackhawks joint with huge Native American-inspired embroidery in the back. There’s also a Washington Bullets piece that, morbidly enough, has a list of presidential assassins (hits and misses) stitched into the back.
Before the customization neither jacket had anything on back and the Blackhawks one also has something sewn inside (that large patch in the lining).
The Washington Bullets changed their name to the Washington Wizards, in part because the murder rate in DC was so high that an increasing number of people objected to the basketball team being called "The Bullets." We took Washington Bullets to its logical extreme.
For the Blackhawks...
There was a historical person called Black Hawk, a chieftain who led his people against the US government and ultimately died in prison. Chicago was originally part of his tribe's territory, so it's especially ironic that the hockey team there is named after him...
I collaborated with a design team called David Sharif on this jacket and we wanted to add something to the jacket that related to the historical Black Hawk and made the old team Starter jacket unfamiliar.