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Sebastiaan Pieter is the Smartest New Name in London Menswear

photographer Andrew Urwin

There was certainly plenty of flash at last week's rodeo of menswear shows for London Collections: Men, but designer Sebastiaan Pieter debuted with something a bit more subtle in mind with his brand new line Pieter. There's still subversion at play here—it wouldn't be London fashion if there wasn't some kind of rebellion—but it's done in a classic way: Pieter says his intention was to introduce unusual silhouettes for men (skirts, smocks and tunics) in the most traditional of UK fabrics like Harris tweed, cashmere wool and waxed cotton. We're certainly game to try his more experimental cuts ourselves, just like we love J.W. Anderson's non-stop androgygny, but we're also suckers for his tamer numbers, like cropped suits in grey, blue trousers and wordy sweatshirts—with a debut this strong, expect lots from this one in the future.

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Sebastiaan Pieter is the Smartest New Name in London Menswear