Yesterday Hood By Air put on their first women's presentation—titled "Superego" (the antecedent to "Ego" and predecessor to October's "Id"—in Paris, and there's a whole lot to unpack. Put up in a sparse, dusty warehouse long after the day's other presentations had shuttered, the women's collection was markedly more refined, even restricted, than the airy apocalypse we saw just a few weeks ago. The strait jacket detailing, use of buttoned-up collars, and consciously gendered presentation all point to the Superego's role as a regulatory faculty: the morass keeping the Id tethered and in check. Female models with pulled back equine ponytails rocked HBA tights, HBA contact lenses, and leather garments with schoolgirl details, as Fatima Al Qadiri and Venus X constructed a growling, scattered live soundtrack. That's not to say there wasn't plenty of darkness; watch the live stream above to get an idea of the kind of fractured foreboding Oliver sent out to the rest of the world, then see the show's looks, here. As for Paris, it was down, as Oliver told the New York Times,“a lot of French older women are into it — all the French Vogue ladies, I guess they’ve lived through a lot.”
Branded Contact Lenses, Fatima Al Qadiri, Old French Ladies: Only at Hood By Air’s “Superego” Show
One thing’s for sure, Id is gonna be nuts.
September 24, 2014