We're almost through the infamous Fashion Month and out of the cities that we've kept an eye on, Milan Fashion Week may have been the most subdued of the three cities thus far. Every year, there is hearty debate over whether Italy's fashion capital is alive and thriving or just quietly humming along in the shadow of bigger names designers, like Prada, Dolce & Gabbanna and Giorgio Armani, that present major runway collections there. As the fashion flock migrates over to Paris for the final leg of the month, here we've called out some of the lesser known names on the Italian scene and the undeniable titans that are still holding their own. Here are our favorite looks from Milan Fashion Week.
I've already written twice about Moschino, but it's worth mentioning I've been dreaming in Jeremy Scott Barbie-scope since I first watched that bubble gum parade. I also was feeling feelings for Aquilano.Rimondi, who played with sheer textures, pretty flowers, and pale pink lipsticks in a way that made my heart beat a little faster. I was into Versace's graphic power plays in limited color palettes (especially, the black), but it was really those round gummy chokers that reminded me of a futuristic dog collar/sex toy and had me sweating. Les Copains was really a sweet little affair, with lots of chiffon, easy shapes, and a kind of quiet glamour that made me feel really aspirational about where I'll be vacationing come next spring.—LR
By the time MFW rolls around, I usually find myself itching for fix of Miuccia Prada's wacky prints, trippy proportions and statement-making heels. Oddly enough, it wasn't Prada that satiated my appetite this time around, but rather three buzzy, up-and-coming designers that truly caught my eye. Italian-Haitian designer Stella Jean sent forth an ode to her Caribbean roots that included Port-Au-Prince football jerseys and shirt dresses emblazoned with vibrant tropical landscapes. Fausto Puglisi, who's become a favorite among It girls, red carpet attendees and pop stars like MIA and Nicki Minaj, kept his cool factor at peak levels with heavily-embellished graphic prints worn under oversized motorcycle jackets for an the overall too-cool-for-school effect. Amping up the kooky prints that they've built their name upon designers Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez, of Au Jour Le Jour, used a plumply lip print—complete with a dangling cigarette—to eschew Milan's stuffy style reputation in favor of a little cheeky fun. - DD