What is Black dandy style? These 5 Black designers fully embody it

The clothes of Dapper Dan, Christopher John Rogers, and more channel the Black dandy’s subversive spirit.

April 28, 2025
What is Black dandy style? These 5 Black designers fully embody it Photo by Johnny Nunez/WireImage

This year, the 2025 Met Gala will be turning its eye to menswear with the theme “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” inspired by Monica L. Miller’s book Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity. It’s the first concept since 2003 to focus on menswear as it explores the Black dandy in its sartorial form throughout history. But what exactly does it mean?

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Black dandyism is a term that originated in the early 18th century from the Atlantic diaspora that was used to describe Black men who challenged societal norms through style. Custom suits, knee breeches, overcoats, ties, and hats were all avenues of sartorial rebellion for Black men who didn’t see themselves reflected in the European-dominated fashion space. More modern interpretations of Black dandyism came in the form of ‘70s zoot suits and ‘90s monogrammed suits à la Harlem designer Dapper Dan. Today, a plethora of Black designers — think Pharrell Williams for Louis Vuitton menswear — have expanded the boundaries of dandy fashion to encompass womenswear, gowns, streetwear and more, though the term’s core, subversive spirit remains the same.

Ahead of the first Monday in May, where we expect Black-owned fashion brands to take center stage, find five Black designers that we predict will dominate the 2025 Met Gala red carpet to fully embody the Black dandy.

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Christopher John Rogers
What is Black dandy style? These 5 Black designers fully embody it Photo by Arturo Holmes/MG21/Getty Images

Since his daring Met Gala debut with Gossip Girl star Jordan Alexander in 2021, Christopher John Rogers has been a must-watch on the glossy steps. In 2019, the Louisiana-born designer took home the top prize at the 16th CFDA/Vogue fashion fund and since then Rogers’s kaleidoscopic armor of suiting and formalwear has constantly pushed the limits of Black fashion through a rainbow-hued assortment of voluminous gowns and two-toned sets. He’s dressed everyone from former First Lady Michelle Obama and former Vice President Kamala Harris to Zendaya and Beyoncé. Rogers is confirmed to attend the 2025 Met Gala, and his colorful twist on Black dandyism will likely come in the form of an elaborate gown that’s guaranteed to stand out in a sea full of (what will most likely be) all-black everything.

Dapper Dan

Dapper Dan embodies Black dandyism at its finest. The Harlem-based designer got his start combining knock-off high fashion prints with streetwear elements and though he has been sued by houses like Fendi, Louis Vuitton, and more, he’s simultaneously become a revered figure in the fashion world.

This year, the legendary tailor and fashion figure joins the Met Gala’s hosting committee — and he’s giving the zoot suit, a silhouette known for its high-waisted, tightly-cuffed trousers, a quintessential Harlem touch. “My introduction to this historical Met Gala event this year will be the history of the zoot suit,” Dan wrote in an Instagram post. “It is when the intersection of fashion and music comes together during the black intellectual period known as the HARLEM RENAISSANCE.”

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Sergio Hudson
What is Black dandy style? These 5 Black designers fully embody it Keke Palmer and Sergio Hudson at the 2025 Vanity Fair Oscar Party.   Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images for Vanity Fair

Sleek, tailored suits are deeply rooted in Sergio Hudson’s Southern DNA. Like Rogers, the South Carolina native uses vibrant colorways and exaggerated silhouettes in womenswear to make a statement, inspired by his upbringing in the church. He famously dressed Kamala Harris and Michelle Obama for the 2021 Presidential Inauguration and made headlines at the 2023 Met Gala for outfitting Keke Palmer and La La Anthony, proving his knack for working with Black trailblazers at the height of the cultural zeitgeist. It’s likely he’ll be doing the same at this year’s event, having already confirmed his attendance. While he hasn’t revealed much ahead of the big night, the Black dandy theme is very much at the core of his creations. “I mean, it’s me,” he told USA Today.

Theophilio
What is Black dandy style? These 5 Black designers fully embody it Photo by Taylor Hill/WireImage

When F1 star Lewis Hamilton paid for creative director Edvin Thompson and two other emerging Black designers to attend the 2021 Met Gala, it undoubtedly became one of the most iconic moments in the event’s history. Four years later, Thompson, leading his own brand Theophilio, is (almost) certainly returning to dress the biggest stars of the night. His most notable work includes paying homage to American fashion with Sha’Carri Richardson’s fiery ensemble and Alton Mason’s white crystal-embellished suit at the 2021 Met Gala.

The Brooklyn-based designer demonstrates how far the Black dandy spectrum extends with contemporary casual and Jamaican-inspired pieces at the heart of the brand. With his latest fall 2025 collection inspired by his father’s wardrobe, Thompson proves that the Black dandy is very much true to the Theophilio agenda, too.

Wales Bonner

London-based designer Grace Wales Bonner will be attending this year’s Met Gala as part of the hosting committee, meaning her designs are bound to hit the steps. Bonner founded her label in 2014 and over her career the award-winning designer has deconstructed and reimagined classic menswear silhouettes with a nuanced lens, often exploring a fused perspective of European heritage and Black identity through relaxed silhouettes. We can expect Bonner to continue her storytelling of Black identity through elegant menswear pieces on herself and other stars.

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What is Black dandy style? These 5 Black designers fully embody it