Can Tran is making Boy London punk again

The last time Boy London graced my feed it was around the mid-2010s. Back then, Rihanna and (pre-MAGA) Nicki Minaj were rocking snapbacks and tanks emblazoned with crosses, eagles, and massive “BOY” logos. That era of Boy London is long gone, but this past New York Fashion Week, I got to see what the brand is shaping up to be going forward. Rather than time-traveling back to its hypebeast heyday, the fall 2026 collection is reviving its punk roots.

The brand’s latest collection, titled “Guillotine,” is all leather gloves, strappy jackets, cross necklaces, and tartan plaid, worn by models who stomped down the church aisles at at St. Paul German Lutheran Church during its debut. It’s a throwback to what Boy London was before it became — and later, fizzled out as — a streetwear phenomenon. In the late 1970s and 1980s, founder Stephane Raynor’s thrifty vision of Boy London thrived on anarchism and pure rage; his clothes were worn by everyone from Andy Warhol and Elton John to Sid Vicious and Madonna.

“I don’t think you can do a brand like this justice without a lot of work on the research side,” says Can Tran who stepped in as Boy London America’s creative director in 2025 and is leading its resurrection.

For Tran’s first collection for the brand, he took direct inspiration from Raynor’s archival designs, along with medieval references and classic menswear silhouettes. “There, I understood what Stephane Raynor built 50 years ago. Some people would say he predates Vivian Westwood in terms of when he started collecting clothes, having his own store, and sharing clothes with Vivian’s boyfriend, Malcolm McLaren. He really kicked off that punk-slash-DIY era that formed the subculture. We’re trying to honor that past.”

Ahead, Tran talks more about Boy London America’s fall 2026 “Guillotine” collection and his vision to revamp the heritage label.

The FADER: I’m curious to know more about Boy London’s return to the American market. What can we expect to see from Boy London America at fashion week and beyond?

Can Tran: So, the brand has never left the States. The owners of the brand have had the brand here for over 26 years. Boy London has had different moments in time in which it has touched culture through the years that have resonated with celebrities, rappers, artists, and people coming from various worlds. But now, we’re revamping it. We’re changing things around and trying to show a distinctive version of Boy London.

You mention wanting to “honor the past.” How does that manifest in the new collection?

We wanted to bring back a lot of archival pieces. A lot of these elements are quintessentially punk, such as bondage, which communicates feelings of constraint and rebellion, almost like a straitjacket. It’s about the wearer having a dialogue with society.

Also, we thought about the fabrication of silhouettes and trying to bring that to the modern era. It’s difficult trying to capture that while paying homage to the past because people already have a lens through which they imagine Boy London to be. We’re trying to attract new, modern fans with these sensibilities.

I think a lot of older brands are struggling to adapt to modern times, especially with the rapidly-evolving landscape of social media, and now, AI. Where do you think fashion goes from here?

The world is so divided right now. In fashion, the divide is economic. When I was shaping my vision for the brand, I searched every single t-shirt that was sold on Ssense and a few other retailers. I made a list of the price points. They were either super high or super low, like, $500 or $50 t-shirts. There’s no middle ground. I think it speaks to the idea of maintaining an upper crust, and if you changed this, then it might affect the brand’s DNA and what it stands for.

I don't know exactly what is needed in fashion, but I knew I didn’t want to alienate the Boy London customer. I want to make beautiful clothing that’s attainable. When people heard about the price points I was trying to achieve, they thought it was a little mad because I wanted the best fabrication — you know, cashmere and wool — but have it be accessible. I want people to feel like this is built for them, old and new fans. Authenticity is needed in brands today rather than trying to adjust marketing strategies to appeal to new customers every day.

What are your goals in revamping Boy London America?

I don’t have any lofty goals. I just want to make really cool clothing. When we were putting this collection together, I envisioned full collections for both men’s and women’s. I wanted to push into accessories and footwear and everything else, but with time and costs, it’s been difficult. For now, I plan to expand to other categories, get into the best stores, garner the best press, and attract the best fans. That’s all we can hope for right now.

This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.